Parisians have a conception of public and private space that
differs markedly from that of Americans, and the difference is, for me, one of
the special charms of Paris. Let me
begin with some matters of fact and law.
Susie and I bought our Paris apartment in the spring of 2004. It was listed as a “Loft, rue de Maître
Albert” [odd, considering that it is on the ground floor], with a “surface” of
32.58 square meters. For those of you a
trifle out of practice with the metric system, that is 339.32 square feet. By comparison, the apartment we have just
moved into in the Carolina Meadows retirement home is 1607 square feet, which
is to say roughly five times as large.
Our Paris apartment is truly a pied-à-terre
if your feet are not too big. Lest you
imagine that we bought the smallest apartment available, I will just note that
in our little copropriété or co-op,
there are next door to us in the courtyard two smaller apartments which together have exactly the same square
meterage as we do!
The precision is
essential to a Parisian. “Surface”
includes only that part of the floor space in which one can stand up erect, so
in those charming top-floor apartments under the gambrel roofs of Paris, the
bits of floor under the sloping roof which are only good for shoes or perhaps a
cat box do not count when the apartment is advertised. Indeed, if one buys an apartment and then
discovers that the floor space, or “surface” is less than advertised, one has
the right in law to demand a proportionate refund of the purchase price.
The obsession with precision in floor space manifests itself
in many ways. We pay quarterly co-op
dues and also, of course, periodic assessments for whatever repairs and such
must be made to the buildings. Our dues
are precisely apportioned according to our floor space, as measured in
ten-thousandths of the total, or tantiemmes. Our apartment has 277 tantiemmes, which is to say 2.77% of the total floor space of all
fifteen apartments in the co-op, and so we pay 2.77% of any dues and assessments.
Our apartment’s tininess is by no means unusual. When we were in Paris two weeks ago, we were
invited for drinks and snacks to the apartment of a charming American ex-pat
with whom we struck up a friendship in the local café as a consequence of her delightful
dog, Apollon. Joan lives, not for two or
three weeks at a time, but year-round, in a seventh floor apartment [sixth
floor by the French system of counting] with Apollon and two cats, Mozart and
Clara [for Clara Schuman]. She has a
view of the towers of Nôtre Dame [a signal selling point]. Her apartment is roughly half a square meter smaller than ours.
How do Parisians survive in such constrained quarters? The answer is that they spend a great deal of
their time in the ubiquitous bustling, exciting public spaces that are the
distinctive charm of Paris. Half a block
from our apartment is Place Maubert, a lively constantly active space dominated
by Le Metro, our local café. Susie and I go the Le Metro every day,
sometimes several times a day. A single espresso or kir gives us the
unquestioned right to sit for as many hours as we desire, watching the huge
tour buses negotiate the narrow side streets, observing our fellow patrons,
saying hello to the waiters we have come to know and like [such as Samy, who
juggles trays of drinks and dinners like a juggler at the Cirque de Soleil],
and checking on the condition of the local street person who has staked out
ownership of one small bit of sidewalk.
The French protect their public spaces, cleaning them,
improving them, renovating them, maintaining them. In the spring and summer, at lunch time, the
open air cafés are jammed with people eating, gossiping, relaxing. The French workers, by the way, are quite as
productive as American workers, but they cherish and protect their time to
enjoy the social life of the streets.
Susie and I do not spend long periods in our apartment. I think a month is the longest we have
stayed. But we do not feel cramped or
oppressed in 339.32 square feet, and I think we could spend much longer before
we began to need more space. Our
kitchen, in which I have prepared duck, rabbit, quail, tuna, swordfish, dorade royale, coquilles St. Jacques, and countless other dinners, is probably no
more than 40 square feet, including the stove, fridge, microwave/oven and
dishwasher, and yet I am happier there than anywhere else on earth.
One of the oddities of the real estate market is that with
very few exceptions, the only factors determining price are location and square
meterage. A shell and a beautifully
renovated apartment in the same location with the same square meterage will
list for roughly the same price.
Fortunately for us, real estate values where we live have been rising
slowly but steadily for the past four hundred years, and will probably keep
doing so for another four hundred years.
I can’t wait to get back.